Wednesday was my last day in Benares, and that afternoon I was to catch the train. The whole day was spent hustling to get a list of things done before time to leave.
Went looking for an Indian breakfast, since I refuse to pay an arm and a leg for omelettes and toast that I don't like, and ran into the palm reader and another man. They persuaded me to go and "listen to some music" before the banks opened, and although I suspected a business motive, I went along. The other man walked me some distance away and then left me waiting in a room. I waited five minutes and then snuck away.
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Packed, cashed traveler's checks, gathered up all of the various packages I had to be mailed, and got a rickshaw to the G.P.O. He took me to some bank away on the edge of town. I got down and hailed another rickshaw, who agreed to take me to the G.P.O., and rode away w/o paying anything. I thought he should pay me for wasting my time. The second rickshaw took me to the rail station. I was being angry with him when a rickshaw driver who spoke English came up. "He no malu sahib." The 2nd rickshaw boy didn't get any money either. The 3rd one got me to the G.P.O, but wouldn't take any money. Said he'd wait and take me to the hotel afterwards. So I went into the GPO with my four packages.
It took a long time. I was just beginning to make progress when Old Uncle arrived. He helped me with finding out what needed to be done, gluing on stamps, etc., and at 2 o'clock we rode away to get me lunch and some drinks.
Old Uncle had been taking me around and being helpful, with no mention of payment, which is the way he works, and I had no idea how much to give him. After I'd eaten I went across the street to meet him at a silk store, he was very sweet, and I gave him 175 rupees.
I'd finished up everything just in time to retrieve my bags from the hotel, have a Gold Spot on the balcony, and get a rickshaw to the train.
My last train ride in India was generally fairly miserable because of my cold. Arrived at Howrah around 7AM, I had breakfast at the station, and was in a room, a better room, at the Metropol, by 8AM.
Cleaned up and bustled right off on business, to find the Thai Consulate and get a visa. They wanted to see my ticket to Bangkok before I could have a visa, and for one obscure reason or another, all relating to getting toward the end of my money, I decided to bag Burma, and just hurry right across to Bangkok, and down to Bali.
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American Express sold me a ticket, and the guy there told me I could probably get a ticket to the U.S. from Bangkok for $300, which is what I've been hearing all along. They also said I do not need a visa, as long as I arrive with at least $300.
Got a horrible ear ache after dinner, and around 11:00, decided I'd have to go see a doctor. Found a taxi, which took me to a hospital nearby, where there seemed to be only one doctor on duty. He wrote me out a prescription no charge, the taxi driver managed to find an open pharmacy, and I was able to get my medicine. After a while the pain subsided, but again around 2:30 AM I woke up, feeling more pain than ever. Took the last of the pills I'd bought, plus 4 aspirin, hoping that would hold me until dawn, and fell off to sleep again.
I was able to sleep right through until 10AM, and woke feeling pretty groggy, but feeling no pain.
All day today I have been unable to do much of anything. Muslim holiday and everything seems to be closed down.
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